Magnetising Large Bioforms — A VoidHive Guide to Poseable Titans

Large resin centrepieces are a serious investment — in money, in time, and in paint. Magnetising them is one of the smartest decisions you can make. Swappable arms, poseable heads, and removable weapon options give you flexibility on the tabletop and protect your paintwork during transport. Here's how we approach magnetising our biggest bioforms at VoidHive Forge.

Why Magnetise?

At 250mm, a model like the Synapse Devourer has significant weight and leverage working against its joints. Glued connections can stress and snap under transport. Magnets solve this — they hold firmly during play but release cleanly under pressure, protecting both the model and your paint job. They also let you experiment with different poses and load-outs without committing permanently.

What You'll Need

• Neodymium magnets — 3mm x 2mm for arms and weapon mounts, 5mm x 2mm for torso and large connection points
• Pin vice / hand drill — with 3mm and 5mm drill bits
• Super glue (cyanoacrylate) — thin viscosity for magnets, medium for resin prep
• Greenstuff or Milliput — for filling gaps and reinforcing sockets
• A marker pen — for polarity marking (critical — more on this below)

Step 1 — Plan Your Connection Points

Before drilling anything, dry-fit the model and identify every joint you want to magnetise. On large bioforms this typically includes: shoulder/arm mounts, head socket, tail base, and any weapon or appendage options. Mark each point lightly with a pencil.

Step 2 — Mark Your Polarity

This is the step most beginners skip — and regret. Before gluing a single magnet, mark the north pole of every magnet in your batch with a marker pen. Always install magnets with the same pole facing outward on the body, and the opposite pole facing outward on the arm/weapon. Do this consistently and every piece will be interchangeable.

Step 3 — Drill and Seat

Drill your holes slightly shallower than the magnet depth — you want the magnet to sit flush or just proud of the surface. Apply a small drop of thin super glue to the hole, seat the magnet, and hold for 30 seconds. Allow to cure fully before attaching the opposing piece.

Step 4 — Test Before Painting

Always fully assemble and test all magnetic connections before priming. Check that every arm, weapon, and head seats correctly and holds under the model's own weight. Fix any weak connections now — it's far easier than after painting.

Tips for Resin Specifically

Resin is more brittle than plastic — drill slowly and with light pressure to avoid cracking. If a connection point is thin, reinforce it with a small Greenstuff collar around the magnet before it cures. For very large joints, consider using two magnets side by side for extra holding strength.

The Payoff

A fully magnetised 250mm centrepiece is a joy to own. It travels safely, poses dynamically, and gives you options. The extra hour of prep work pays dividends every time you pack it into a case or set it up on the display board.

Build smart. The Hive adapts. So should your models.